Bhutan
(13 Oct 2006 to 23 Oct 2006)
We are a group of seven : Ric, Frank, Wendy, Luca, Avis, Molly
and Sammy.
As the flight from Paro to Bangkok on 21 Oct 2006 was very full, we had
to stay in Bhutan until 23 Oct 2006. We had plenty of free time
and
therefore I could record down very detailed itinerary below.
I love the valley, rivers, tall green trees, red trees, grassland,
forest, blue sky, waterfalls, golden paddy fields, ......in Bhutan.
General Information
High season : Mar, Apr, May, Sep, Oct and Nov
Low season : Jan, Feb, Jun, Jul, Aug and Dec
Tour package includes airport transfers, overland transport,
accommodation, meals, sightseeing, local guide and museum fees.
Tour package excludes airfares, visa, airport departure tax and tourism
development fund.
For a group of 3 or above :
- Tour package costs USD 200 per person per night in high season
- Tour package costs USD 165 per person per night in low season
For one or two persons, FIT (individual) surcharge
- one person, USD 40 per person per night
- two persons, USD 30 per person per night
Tourism Development Fund, USD 10 per person. It is a one time payment
for the entire duration of the tour.
Single room supplement, USD 20 per night.
Round trip air ticket of Bangkok and Paro - USD 720
Round trip air ticket of Hong Kong and Bangkok - HKD 2400
VISA USD 20
Luggage can be checked through all the way from Hong Kong to Paro.
Recent photo is not needed for VISA.
Reference
http://www.bhutankingdom.com
http://www.global.com.hk
http://www.museumfriends.org.hk/events_0506.htm
13 Oct 2006
We arrived Hong Kong airport at
20:00, but
it took very long time to
check in. It was because we had only the approval letter of VISA.
The Cathay staff knew nothing about Bhutan and he was responsible to
make sure that we could make our VISA in Bhutan with this letter.
Although the Cathay staff told us that we could not check through the
luggages
to Paro, in fact we did it successfully, no need to go out and in
for the luggages and no need to pay the Bangkok airport tax.
14 Oct 2006
Our tour guide was Rinchen Tshering
(Rinchen means jewellery and Tshering means long life). He was a nice
young
(24 years old) man. He taught me to speak Dzongkha
(Official language of Bhutan, Kha means language). Every Bhutan man
with age over 18 has to
wear Bhutan traditional clothes (gho) in office. Rinchen looked very
different in gho and in modern clothes. Our travel bus

was a
medium
one, maximum 24 passengers and 1 driver. Paro is a beautiful
valley

with a big Pa Chu (Chu means river)

. The
weekly market in Paro opened every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The
King

has four
Queens and the
Queens are sisters.
The King has already reigned the country for 40 years and he will pass
his reign to his son in 2008 and ends the monarchy in the same year.
The country will turn into democracy then !
The Crown Prince

is now
the Trongsa Panel and every king must be a
Trongsa Panel before he become a king.
Fishing without license is not allowed in Bhutan. Fish is usually
imported from India. Other goods are mainly imported from India and
Thailand. Unauthorised cutting down timber was a serious offence in
Bhutan.
We visit shops

in the
street

(shop's
name is usually boss's name,

"TSHERING" is a name and "DORJI" here is a name, "DORJI" also
means a kind of lama's weapon). We visited a art gallery

.
After early lunch, we drove to Satsam
Chorten for Taktsang hike. Usually
the hike starts in early morning. As Frank would go back on 20 Oct
2006, we had to hike on 14 Oct 2006. On the way to the Taksang
Lhakhnag, we
saw many prayer flags

(pray by
the wind), prayer wheels

and water
prayer wheels

(pray by
running water). As we did not have time, we just hiked to
Taktsang Cafeteria

instead
of Taktsang Lhakhnag (Lhakhnag means
temple)

. We took
photos

and had
tea

in the
Taktsang Cafeteria. The Taktsang Lhakhnag was on fire on 1997 and the
rebuild work
was finished by the end of 1998. The work was done by prisoners.
The first traffic light was introduced to Bhutan in 1994. As drivers
were not familiar with this, it caused traffic jams and accidents.
Finally, it was removed.
Bhutan started to have television and internet in 1999, mobile phone in
2002.
Traditional Bhutanese buildings are in red and white colour. The red
colour signifies sun and the white colour signifies moon.
The big lama stays in Thimphu in summer and stays in Punaka in winter.
Only the king and the big lama can wear yellow scarf.
We stayed in Hotel Pegyel, Paro

.
Bhutanese eats very spicy food. Our
tour guide Rinchen had ema datsi (ema is chilli and datsi is cheese)
for every meal.
Every night, we played majong in the hotel

.
15 Oct 2006
After breakfast, we took photos with most Hotel Pegyel staffs
before we left

. On
the road from Paro to Thimphu (capital), the road is blocked for
traffic for a few
hours everyday except on Sunday. A new
express highway was being built from Thimphu to India. About 10% of the
new highway was completed and it will be finished in 2010.
The three major income of Bhutan are hydro-electricity (selling to
India),
tourism and agriculture.
We took photos near a famous iron bridge

.
Stupas are usually built in dangerous spots e.g. river confluence,
bridge and road junctions,
where accidents happened frequently. Stupas are for good deed, memorial
of dead
people and safety of travellers.
In the Pa Chu (Paro river) and Wang Chu (Thimphu river) confluence,
there are three stupas

. One in
Bhutanese style, one in Nepalese style
and one in Tibetan style.
The chilli season was just finished. We found many red chilli on the
roofs

and the
chilli is reserved for winter use.
We arrived Thimphu and visited the
Memorial Chorten

which was
built in
honour of the third king who introduced free hospital facilities and
education. He promoted friendship with other countries. He also
collected all lands in Bhutan and evenly distributed to all Bhutanese.
The top level of the Memorial Chorten

offers
good view of the city, we saw
buildings including hospitals and schools. There is only one university
in Bhutan. It
is not in the capital, it is located in the eastern part of Bhutan.
Only students with very good examination results can study in this
university.
Then we visited Changangkha Lhakhnag (Lhakhnag means temple)

. Many
parents bring their new born babies to the temple and invite lama to
give
names to the babies.
After having lunch in Conifers restaurant

, we went
to a zoo to see the
national animal Takin

. It was
said that a lama used his super power to
change cow and sheep into one animal - Takin

. It has
a cow body and a sheep head !
Then we visited a Nunnery

(from
where we can overlook down by the riverside, Thimphu Dzong

).
A Dzong is composed of government administration office and monastery.
We visited the Thimphu Dzong, Trashichhodzong

. It is
the king's office.
Tourists are not allowed to get in until 17:00 when the king leaves the
Dzong.
Bhutanese admire and love the king. The king is very hardworking,
clever and handsome. He is very friendly and always visits villages. He
also conquers
terrorists and donates a lot of money.
In the carpark near the Dzong, Rinchen introduced the format of
car registration mark to us. Registration mark starts with "BP" means
private car

, "BT"
means taxi

and "BG"
means government vehicle

. Then we
visited a handicraft shop.
We had free time from 15:00 onwards. We went shopping

,
had ice-creams, made telephone call back to Hong Kong

(mobile
roaming did not work, only One2Free works, because there are too many
local subscribers) and
walked around the Sunday
market.
We had dinner and stayed in Hotel Dragon Roots, Thimphu

.
During dinner, we asked Rinchen many questions about Bhutan. Bhutanese
gets married at the age of 26 to 28. Rinchen might go to Japan to study
Japanese for five months.
Chicken is not common because people believe that killing small animals
is a sin.
Therefore, eating chickens and fish are very sinful. Moreover, very few
chickens are imported from India to avoid bird flu.
16 Oct 2006
We went to the post office to buy stamps and went to the bank to
exchange local money, Nu (1 USD = 44 Nu)

.
Avis did not feel well, we went to a hospital

and
consulted a doctor

.
To our surprise, it was free of charge. As we could not wait several
hours for the free medicine, we bought the medicine in the
pharmacy

. We
asked for some other medicine because we found that she gave us expired
medicine. We also found something expired in general shops.
We took photo for Simtokha Dzong

which is
the first Dzong built in
Bhutan.
Then we went to Dochu La pass (la means pass). There are 108
stupas

in
Dochu La pass. We walked around the stupas in clockwise direction
because walking anti-clockwise direction is a sin. We could not see
eastern
part of Himalaya from
Dochu La pass because it was very foggy (

Himalaya
just behind us). We had lunch at Dochila
Cafeteria (long queue for the restaurant toilet

).
Punakha is the old capital. Our bus stopped near Punakha Dzong

. This
Dzong was built in the male river and female river confluence and the
Dzong is protected by the two rivers. As expected, we found a stupa
there

. There
are 21 temples inside Punakha Dzong. The Dzong was damaged
six times by fire, flood and earthquake.
On the way to Punaka Dzong, we saw a secondary school

.
Therefore, we
requested to visit the school first. Then we visited the Dzong

, took
photo for the wishing tree

and wheel
of life

. The
heads of the villages

were
having meeting about the election in 2008. We visited a temple in the
Dzong

, only
the left and the right side of the stairs can be used, the middle
one

is
reserved for the King and the big lama.
We had dinner and stayed in Dragon Nest Resort of Wangdi

.
17 Oct 2006
The only activity was travel by bus.
Our driver drove from Wangdi to Trongsa for more than five hours. After
having lunch in Trongsa, another drive from Trongsa to Bumthang for
more than two and a half hour.
During the long drive, we listened to
iPod, we saw some notice board about AIDS

. The
Queen advertised about the use of condoms to prevent AIDS. Free condoms
are available at check points. We
passed Black Mountain

and Pele
La pass. We peed in natural toilets (

girls had
to climb up a slope for it). We
saw some yaks

. We met
school truck

, local
bus, a bridge build for Japan and
Bhutan friendship

. Many
lovely children waved hands to us. Of course,
we saw many stupas. It is quite crazy that some stupas are built in the
middle of the roads. We also requested to stop to take photos when we
saw beautiful scenery

. We
arrived Trongsa

and had
lunch in Hotel Norling, Trongsa.
Tourists have to take long long drive to Trongsa because there is no
flat land to build airport.
After lunch, we were on the road
again. We
requested to stop to take photos of boo (penis)

. Local
people hang a big penis at
the four corners of the roof (

see the
flying penis ?) or draw big penis

or fixed
the penis at the entrance

to drive
away devils. On the way, we visited a small weaving factory

.
Finally, we arrived Wangdicholing Resort, Bumthang

. We met
a
Singaporean who has been working in Bhutan for four years. He
built hotels and it
was his first time to meet tourists from Hong Kong. The hotel rooms
looked like sauna rooms

. There
were special "fireplace"

. Late at
night, Avis
found that
she left her watch in Dragon Nest Resort and we asked Rinchen for help.
18 Oct 2006
The staff of Dragon Nest Resort told Rinchen that no watch was
found. Rinchen requested confirmation from the manager again, but
unfortunately they gave the
same answer.
We visited Jambay Lhakhnag

. Some
day
between the end of Oct to the beginning of Nov, a very famous naked
dance is performed by monks and local men. They dance to bless women.
This year, the date of this event is 04 Nov 2006. In ancient time, a
king ordered to build 108 temples within one day. One location is
Bumthang, it is Jambay Lhakhnag. Another location is Paro. All
others are in Tibet. Old people always pray and walk clockwisely around
stupa in Jambay Lhakhnag. They put one stone after each round and when
they
finish praying, they count number of stones because the number of
stones represent the number
of rounds.
We visited Kurjey Lhakhnag (Kur means body, Jey means print)

. There
is
a body print in the temple. We could not take photo for the body print
because it is not allowed. There is one big
tree in the temple with branches growing downward. It is believed that
the tree is a up side down walking stick. There are 108 stupas in the
temple. All stupas are white in colour except the one for devils which
is
black

. I
passed through two rocks

.
People believe that all sins will be washed
away if one passes through these two rocks. Very bad guys cannot
pass through these two rocks even the bad guy has very thin body.
Then we hiked

to
Tamshing Lhakhnag

. We saw
a Tibetan truck (with eyes)

which
were quite common in Bhutan. We passed a swing bridge

. There
are small
monks studying in the temple : they read aloud while swinging their
bodies back and forth

. The
statue inside the temple is
looking upward because the statue was looking at the three flying
angels.
We visited cheese factory

(Datsi
for ema datsi

) and
bought some cheese.
We hiked to Mebar Tsho (burning lake)

. Long
long time ago, a lama
wanted to show his special power. He went down the lake with a lamp and
then he came out from the water with some jewellery. The fire in the
lamp still on. That why it is called "burning lake". Some students
fell down in the lake every year and local people believe that the
water pulls
down kids.
Then we had a big lunch

in Kaila
Guest house

.
Again, we had another two and a half hour drive back to Trongsa. We
pass
Yontong La
pass

.
When we arrived Trongsa, we visited Trongsa Dzong

. Rinchen
explained
wheel of life

to us.
We went to Hotel Norling, Trongsa again

. We had
dinner and stayed there.
There was no electricity twice in the hotel.
19 Oct 2006
We visited Phubjikha valley

. We ate
our packed lunch at a stupa

which is built at a road junction

.
We went back to Dragon Nest Resort, Wangdi for toilets

and
for Avis's
watch, but we could not find her watch.
On the way to Thimphu, we requested to stop and take photos

.
We arrived Dragon Root Hotel, Thimphu again. We went out to town before
dinner. That night, we did not
have dinner in the hotel. We had dinner in a restaurant "Bhutan
Kitchen"

near the
travel agent office in Thimphu

. The
managing director
of the travel agent is Rinchen's father

. He is
Gembo Tshering. He
greeted us and gave us souvenirs. He told us that the tourists visiting
Bhutan are mainly from USA, Japan and Europe. He also introduced the
manager

to
us because the manager would take Frank to Paro airport early next
morning. We told him that Bhutanese food was good, but
every lunch and dinner in every restaurant and hotel the food were the
same. Actually, we were not complaning, but something changed later.
Luca had lower back problem that night.
20 Oct 2006
Avis had problems with her nose, ears and head. She could not
sleep. Wendy and Avis went to Paro airport with Frank and the manager.
Rinchen's father had already been in the airport in the morning to see
his wife off to New Dehli. He was very busy for
fighting a flight seat for Avis, traffic arrangement for Wendy from
Paro airport to Thimphu (everyday road block except Sunday) because the
Customs and Immigration officers did not allow Wendy to wait in the
airport with Avis, also traffic arrangement for Avis in case Avis could
not get a seat. Alhough the flight was very full, finally Avis got a
seat in business class in the last minute. The rest of us visited the
art
school, watching painting, wood curving

,
sculpture

. Exact
measurements
for painting

and
sculpture are very important because it is a sin if a
god is not drawn in scale.
We visited the national library

, but it
was closed.
We requested to go to BBS tower

to view
the
whole Thimphu city. We saw
Rinchen's house (one white house

) which
is in white in colour and quite near to the Queen's palace.
We visited a paper factory

.
We had lunch in a Chinese restaurant

and
Rinchen asked us to make our
order.
After lunch, it was our free time. We saw dancing for the king's
birthday in a private school, and saw the Memorial Chorten

again.
After 17:00, we visited Trashhodzong

again.
The Dzong

is very
crowded
in Thimphu festival (last for four days) and everyone wear expensive
jewelleries and expensive gho.
In the clock tower near Hotel Dragon Root, some workers were preparing
the art exhibition which was to be held in the next morning

. We knew
that the queen
would come for the open ceremony.
We had dinner in Hotel Dragon Root (painting in the hotel
restaurant

) .
Rinchen told the hotel to cook
something new for our dinner. We had steam fish.
Every night, dogs were having parties and we heard dogs barking all the
night. That night was very quiet because the dogs were hiding from
heavy rain, lightning and thundering. Stray dogs and dogs kept by
citizens is a major problem in
Thimphu because dogs attack people at nights especially when one walked
alone.
21 Oct 2006
We requested to see the queen in the "Crafts Fair 2006"

before we
left Thimphu. We saw
the queen, queen's father

and
queen's daughter

. We also
visited the national library again, but it was still closed.
We waited in our bus because there was road block.
When we arrive Paro, we had "momo"

for
our lunch. Momo is dumpling with
cheese and vegetable, or pork inside.
We visited the National Museum (Ta Dzong, Ta means watch)

. Taking
photos is not allowed inside the museum. We took photo outside the
museum

and we
saw Para Dzong

beneath
the museum. Driver drove us to
Paro Dzong, we walked down passing Paro Dzong

without
going inside the
Dzong.
We went back to Hotel Pegyel, Paro again.
Rinchen and the hotel staff assisted us to set our own dinner menu. We
spent quite long time because we asked quite many questions about
food

.
As Frank and Avis were in Hong Kong, Wendy, Luca and I had single room.
22 Oct 2006
Ater having breakfast, we adjusted our dinner menu.
On the way to Sunday market, we saw local people playing archery.
Therefore
we requested to stop and watch the archery tournament

. The
distance
between the player and the target is 145 yards!
We visited Sunday market

and
bought some fruit

in the
market. We also
bought three pairs of dart

.
We visited the Drugyel Dzong

which is
in the northern part. We saw a beautiful valley

and
Tibet is just behind the mountain

.
We vistied Kichu Lhakhnag. There is a twin temples

which is one of those 108 temples that the king ordered to build within
one day.
We had lunch in a restaurant

.
We visited a farm house

. It is a
property of Rinchen's grand father.
The farm house was managed by Rinchen's aunt. Rinchen and his younger
brothers showed us the bow
given by his grand father

.
Top level of farm house is for storage

. Middle
level is the living room

. Farmers
keep livestocks in ground floor

for three
purposes : easy to feed, protect livestocks from wild animals and keep
living room in middle level warm.
We went back hotel to play darts.
We had hot stone bath

.
After dinner, guys wore gho and ladies wore kira

.
23 Oct 2006
After having breakfast, we went to the airport.
Wendy took photos for the snow mountain

in the
restricted area. While
airport staff were busy with shooing Wendy away, Luca got the chance to
take photos for the snow
mountain

.
After taking photos, we got into the plane. In the plane we took photo
for Himalaya
Below are just some of our photos. Actually, we took loads of
photographs and movies.